Category Archives: Practical advises

Know Your Diamonds: All about the shape

Diamonds will always be a source of intrigue … This month we take a look at some of the shapes available when choosing diamonds and speak with the experts at the Private Diamond Club

Yvan Delcourt, investment diamond expert and founder of the Private Diamond Club tells us that the most common shape of diamond is the round one or “brilliant cut”. With 57 facets it is the form that returns the most light and is the best selling and most expensive.

There are other shapes, known as “fantasy” that are used in jewellery. We feature 10 shapes, the princess cut, emerald, pear, radiant, marquise, cushion, heart, oval and asscher.

Round Brilliant: Developed around 1900, the round diamond is the most popular cut given to diamond. It is usually the best choice in terms of saleability, insurability (due to its relatively “safe” shape), and desired optics.

Princess Cut: The princess cut is the second most popular cut shape for diamonds, next to a round brilliant.[citation needed] The face-up shape of the princess cut is square or rectangular and the profile or side-on shape is similar to that of an inverted pyramid with four beveled sides. The princess cut is a relatively new diamond cut, having been created in the 1960s.

Emerald: Stones whose outlines are either square or rectangular and whose facets are rectilinear and arranged parallel to the girdle are known as step- or trap-cut stones. These stones often have their corners truncated, creating an emerald cut with an octagonal outline. This is done because sharp corners are points of weakness where a diamond may cleave or fracture. Instead of a culet, step-cut stones have a keel running the length of the pavilion terminus. Like other fancy shaped diamonds, emerald cut diamonds can come in a variety of length to width ratios. The most popular and classic outline of emerald cut diamonds are close a value of 1.5.

Pear (or teardrop cut): The first pear-shaped diamond was created in the 1400s by Flemish cutter Lodewyk van Berquem of Bruges, inventor of the diamond-polishing wheel, or scaif. This invention enabled him to polish all the facets of the diamond to optimize light reflection within it. It was from this watershed moment onwards that diamonds began to be used in jewellery.

Radiant: This very special cut is the result of one man’s dream to combine the elegance of an Emerald Cut with the unparalleled brilliance of a Round Brilliant Cut. The Radiant Cut diamond allows people to choose a square or rectangular cut without compromising on brilliance. Recently, the shape has also gained popularity as a preferred choice for engagement rings. Usually these diamonds are set as a solitaire, but they also look amazing when set with either baguette or round shoulder stones.

Marquise: The name is derived from the Marquise of Pompadour, for whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly had a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Because marquise diamonds are long and narrow, they can also create the illusion of greater size. Owing to the shape this cut is sometimes known as a “Navette” (little boat).

Cushion: The cushion cut diamond once referred to as old mine cut) combines a square cut with rounded corners, much like a pillow (hence the name). … While generally less brilliant than round brilliant diamonds, cushion cut diamonds often have better fire, which is part of their appeal. This classic cut has been in existence for almost 200 years, and for the first century it was the most popular diamond shape, similar to round cut today.

Heart Brilliant: Heart shaped diamonds are very popular in solitaire pendants as well as rings and are of course, the unique and unmistakable symbol of love. When choosing a heart, symmetry is a very important characteristic, since it is critical that the two halves of the heart are identical. The first recorded heart shape diamond appears in a portrait entitled “The Gonzaga Princess,” painted around 1605 by Frans Pourbus the younger.

Oval: The diamond oval cut is a newer type of cut created in the 1960s by the popular diamond company Lazare Kaplan International. The cut is a modified brilliant cut which preserves many of the supreme qualities of the original – and exceptionally flashy –  round brilliant cut. Most oval cuts contain 56 facets, but some may have a few more facets depending on how the underside of the stone (known as the pavilion) is cut.

Asscher: In 1902 Joseph Asscher designed the original Asscher cut. This emblematic cut was the first signature cut to be patented. The Asscher Diamond Company held its exclusive patent until the Second World War and saw strong sales internationally. This cut’s popularity peaked in the late 1920s but remained a somewhat rare commodity for the remainder of the century, available only in antique shops and specialised Art Deco jewellers. At the onset of the new millennium, following considerable research and development, the Asscher cut was redesigned with new specifications and additional facets for a more brilliant shine, and has since regained its popularity.

Whatever your preference for the style of diamond is, you can always speak with the Private Diamond Club who will be happy to help and advice. The Private Diamond Club always issue a certificate with every purchase which is the best way to guarantee the authenticity and quality of the diamond.

Buying direct through the Private Diamond Club of Antwerp
you could save up to save 50%.
Contact them for further details:

Enjoy visiting the Private Diamond Club website and browse through
their online catalogue:

How to choose a jewel

I wish to offer a jewel but I have no idea on how to make this choice

The first question to ask is : who is the person you want to offer this jewel ? Is it just a friend, your spouse, a love passing etc…?

You should then observe her complexion (matte colored or white), the color of her eyes, her style (young style 30 years or older), clothing (classic, fashion or casual) her hair (hair color, long or short hair), the jewelry she wears (classic, modern or stylized, fancy jewelry or more traditional jewels), all indications that will be very useful to guide your decision. At this point you begin to have a vague idea of what might make her happy.

Consider also the conformation of the person. If she has a round face rather choose a long form of jewelry: shaped diamond drop earrings, a lying necklace or a diamond pendant. If she has a long neck opt for a ringer diamond necklace which will enhance her beauty.

For a diamond ring long fingers support all forms of rings (elongated, broad, with kitten diamond solitaire height, you and me or trilogies etc…). For short fingers, you should avoid rings with high volume.

For jewelry with precious stones (diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds) consider that the stone must be in harmony with her complexion, her style of outfits, her hair, the color of her eyes … etc.

You also may decide based on the symbolism of the stone given the usual mood and personality to whom the gemstone jewel is intended. Anyone has a favorite color… Her astrological sign may also have an influence on the choice you are going to make. Now you start to get a first “feeling” of the jewel you might choose…

More generally, the diamond is the gemstone most sought after and most appreciated by women because the diamond blends with all colors, all styles, all skin tones, all conformations and carries jewelry for all occasions with required more sophisticated to the most casual.

The diamond jewelry (diamond engagement rings, diamond wedding rings, diamond earrings, diamond pendants …) is “the best friend of the woman”, is the symbol of eternity and is the gem that every woman dreams to wear one day.

The price of “the” carat or the price of carat ?

The global reference to which refer the diamond industry around the world to fix the price of carat is the “Rapaport Diamond Report” that reflects the state of the global market.
It contains the diamond carat reference price, classified into 18 tables. Each table corresponds to a weight range of the stone you want to know the price.

Thus, in September, the benchmark price of a diamond weighing between 0.50 and 0.69 carat, clarity G – VS1 is $ Y per carat. If the stone weighs 0.62 carat, the price will be $ 0.62 x Y.

For a stone of 1.20 carat G – VS1, it will search the reference value in Table 1.00 to 1.49 carat. The price is $ X per carat.
But, for the same quality G – VS1, X is two times higher than Y !!!
Because the price per carat of a diamond weighing 1.00 carats to 1.49 is more than 2 times higher than the price per carat of a diamond weighing from 0.50 to 0.69 carat.

This means that in this example, you can have 4 diamonds of 0.50 carat for the price of a 1 carat diamond !!!

Choosing a diamond

Buying a diamond is a major investment and should take all precautions not to make any mistake.

The first step (essential) is to set the budget you want to spend.

Then select the shape of the diamond knowing that round (brilliant cut with 57 facts ) being the most sought after, it is about 20% more expensive than the so-called fancy shapes (princess, pear, emerald, etc …). This is also the cut that gives maximum brilliance to the diamond.

You will then decide if weight is favored (ie size), the color and / or purity.

In the case of a diamond to be set on a mount, commonly used grades are H / SI1 – G / VS1 or VS2 or F / VVS1 VVS2 for high level jewelry.

The colors D and E are often reserved for investment diamonds.

It is important to choose a zero fluorescence to prevent your ring does not surprise you in a room containing a UV lamp.
But do not forget that 20-40% of the price of your diamond depends on the quality of how it was cut (symmetry, proportions, finish). From this quality depends largely radiance and beauty of your stone.

To give the best to its customers, Private Diamond Club selects in the cutting shops of Antwerp, whose reputation is well established, diamonds whose criteria of symmetry, proportions and finishes are excellent or very good.
In all cases, it is appropriate for stones greater than 0.50 carat weight, to obtain the gemological certificate issued by one of three internationally renowned laboratories (HRD, GIA or IGI).

Price of diamond – do not be fooled!

12th of September 2014

investment diamonds



1 – SHAPE : The Round shape diamond or “brilliant” is by far the most popular and the most sold for diamond jewelry but also for a loose diamond as an investment. “Fantasy” cuts are less expensive than round ones, pear shape , marquise, heart, cushion, oval, emerald cut, princess cut, etc…

2 – WEIGHT : The weight of a diamond is expressed in carats. One carat weighs 20 grams and is divided into 100 points. For example, 25 points is 0, 25 carat. Above one carat we no longer talk about points.

3 – COLOUR : Most diamonds are white, transparent or translucent. Grading is as follows: D: Exceptional White +, E: Exceptional White, F: Extra White +, G: Extra White, H: White, I – J : Nuanced White, K – L: Slightly tinted, M to Z: Tinted. The Antwerp Private Diamond Club sells only diamonds with top colors: D, E, F, G, H.

4 – CLARITY : The clarity of a diamond depends on the location, quantity, size, shape and color of inclusions found there. Grading is as follows : FL: Perfectly pure – IF = LC i.e total lack of inclusion – VVS1 and VVS2: Very Very Slight inclusions, VS1 and VS2: Very slightly inclusions – SI1 and SI2, Slight inclusions not visible to the naked eye – P1, P2 and P3: Large and / or numerous inclusion (s) visible (s) to the naked eye. They are called ”Diamonds piqués”. The Antwerp Private Diamond Club sells only diamonds of higher categories, FL to SI.

5 – THE PROPORTIONS: The Antwerp Private Diamond Club sells only diamonds whose proportions are excellent or very good. If the proportions are average or bad, the diamond value is 10% to 15 % less.

6 – THE SYMMETRY: The Antwerp Private Diamond Club sells only diamonds whose symmetry is excellent or very good. If the symmetry is average or poor, the diamond value is 10% to 15 % less.

7 – THE FINISH (crude trace on one or more facets): The Antwerp Private Diamond Club sells only diamonds whose finish is excellent or very good. If the finish is average or bad, the diamond value is 10% to 15 % less.

8 – THE DEGREE OF FLUORESCENCE: The rarest diamonds are those which are not fluorescent. The Antwerp Private Diamond Club sells only diamonds which have little or no fluorescence. If the fluorescence is medium or high, the diamond value is 15 % less.


Before buying a loose diamond or a dimond jewel ask to see a copy of the Certificate of Authenticity (HRD – GIA or IGI ). You should read these eight criteria . If, for example , a diamond of 1.20 carat E VVSI has Proportions , a Symmetry, a Finish that are good, average or bad and strong Fluorescence , this diamond can be worth up to 60 % less than a diamond of 1.20 carat E VVS1 which all criteria are Excellent or Very Good and with No Fluorescence.

Do not be fooled about the price of a diamond because its price is largely determined by the gradation of each quality criterion.

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